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Cornwall's Med
Cornwall’s ‘Med’: Here is Cornwall at its warmest, most sheltered; of
creeks and tidal waters penetrating deep inland, deep in woods, silent except
for bird-song; of wonderful gardens growing things that live nowhere else
outdoors in England (marvellous in rhododendron, camellia, magnolia time, from
March to end of May especially); of sailing boats everywhere decorating the sea;
of harbour villages where the light is Mediterranean - dazzling in the sunshine.
And really very little that is ugly has been allowed to be built. Here is
Truro, Cornwall’s (small) capital, with its 20th
century cathedral; Falmouth, resort town and cargo/cruise ship/yacht
port, superbly sited; and the glorious Helford River. Trewithen,
Trelissick, Glendurgan, Trebah, Heligan (Lost Gardens of), and
Caerhays are among the finest gardens. In the very middle of Cornwall,
Lanhydrock house is very special, so is its garden. Not the greatest area
for beaches, but good sandy ones near Veryan and Portscatho, in
St Mawes, and around Falmouth and the Helford River’s mouth. Not to be missed is St Just-in-Roseland’s churchyard; nor – within easy
reach – is The Eden Project .
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North Cornwall
Cornwall's north coast: From the River Camel north to Bude and on
to Morwenstow and the highest cliffs in the West Country, it is a mixture
of great cliffs and beaches. Walking (coast path) and bird-friendly cliffs
(usually no road near): peregrines possible. Great sand/surf beaches at
Polzeath, Trebarwith, Widemouth Bay, Bude, and
Sandy Mouth; sandy coves at Port Gaverne, Bossiney,
Crackington Haven, Duckpool, and others less accessible; Rock,
also sandy, is the place for watersports, including sailing on the Camel
estuary; very fine golf course (St Enodoc); mini-fjords at Port
Quin and Boscastle. Port Isaac is very pretty round its
cliff-enclosed harbour. The well-worth-riding Camel Trail cycleway (bikes for
hire) goes from Bodmin Moor beside the Camel to Padstow.
Pencarrow is a beautiful house with wonderful garden. Tintagel has
a ruined castle (King Arthur's?) on a wild headland. St Juliot church was
restored by Thomas Hardy and 'a pair of blue eyes' nearly fell down a
Crackington cliff. Bodmin Moor, its highest hills quite mountainous, is
only a little way inland and Blisland, on its northern edge, is one of
Cornwall's prettiest villages: makes a change from sea: so does lovely
Lanhydrock . Not far to Eden.
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South Cornwall
South Cornwall: between the River Tamar and River Fowey and south of
Bodmin Moor is inland Cornwall at its most gentle and lovely: deep,
wooded valleys (including on Bodmin Moor's southern edge) between sheep and
cattle-grazed fields; tidal creeks (exceptionally pretty Lerryn is on one
of them). Most of it is delightfully by-passed by main roads. On the coast are
long sandy beaches (Whitsand Bay), high headlands and sandy coves at the
foot of cliffs (Lantic Bay) to walk to, two of Cornwall's loveliest cove
villages (Kingsand, Cawsand) and a classic fishing village
(Polperro). From Looe - river-mouth fishing village/resort with
sandy beach - you can shark fish and sail. Round here Daphne du Maurier lived
and wrote. A branch line railway chugs pleasantly from Liskeard to
Looe. Don't miss the Musical Instrument Museum near St Keyne. Just
to the west is Cornwall's star modern attraction, The Eden Project, worth
a once-a-year visit into the future indefinite, and Lanhydrock, a very
lovely National Trust house and garden. Beyond them begins the extraordinary and
spectacular china clay country, good for a visit (excellent museum). You should
go to Cotehele beside the Tamar, too, and Calstock for the ‘messing about in boats’ activity.
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Seaton, Cornwall
Seaton: the River Seaton wriggles through beautiful woods down to the sea at Seaton, a hamlet with PO/shop, pub (good food), beach café, bistro and course sand beach. Country park nearby with butterfly garden, walks and children’s play area. Popular Looe with its shops, cafes, boat/fishing trips, 3 miles.
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